Monday, October 13, 2008

I love the weekend

I've returned safely from another traveling adventure! My luck definitely turned around. We arrived in Guayaquil at 2 am and managed to find our hostel-- 6 dollars a night for a private room and bath. Amazing deal. Guayaquil is SO different than Quito, it's the economic hub and very Westernized. I'm glad we decided to go, and even happier we had only a group of 4 (the number of people that can fit in 1 taxi).

The roads are wide and lined with palm trees. There are tall buildings (no such thing in Quito), and Nestle seems to own everything. We went to a huge park overlooking the bay which had to have been modeled off of Navy Pier. Saturday, they were having an art exhibition, so we wandered around watching local artists paint. We also went to the museum of anthropology and modern art. The good thing about the city is you don't need any plans or money-- you just wander around the city and will encounter something free and fun to do. Saturday night we went to a Beatles tribute concert... surprisingly good. Ecuadorians love the Beatles. Later we found a bar featuring a Cuban guitar player and hung around.

Last week I went to the hospital for my chronic stomach issues, and the doctor prescribed me two medicines (no idea what either of them are, or what they're supposed to do). But I feel much better! Life is easier when you're not keeling over in pain after every meal.

Sunday I spent a rare, glorious day alone in my house. My host mom and sister were returning from a northern province. I got to cook my own meals! I went to the park to run, ALONE! I did things on my own time! I like the Ecuadorian familial bonding, but let's be honest... I'm still American, and I'm still an individual. I like my freedom. Introverts don't exist in Ecuador. I have to take advantage of being alone because it's either unsafe, rude, or impossible to be alone 98% of awake-time.

Thursday, October 9, 2008

Guayaquil

Hi everyone! Bad week. I lost my cell phone, I left it in a Taxi on my way to the debate-watching party. It´s also been incredibly difficult to anything without something going wrong (writing a paper and losing it in cyberspace, getting lost on the way to a friends house, etc). I am oozing with bad luck right now.

BUT, I´m going to Guayaquil this weekend! We´re leaving right after class today (well, right after I buy a new cell phone). It´s a 8 hour bus ride, yuck, but hopefully worth it because this weekend is Guayaquil´s Independence day! So the whole city is one giant fiesta. Guayaquil is generally more unsafe than Quito, but we have a hostel, detailed instructions on which parts of the city to stay in, and a big map. That should help. I would definately regret it if I didn´t see Ecuador´s biggest city.

School is bad right now, so hopefully I´ll be able to study on the bus. Next weekend I have an interview in Muisne (my future island home), then in 2 weeks I move there. And I´ll start teaching health! No more schoolwork, just a full time internship.

I´ll let you know how my Guayaquil weekend turns out!

Monday, October 6, 2008

My Jump


Proof! Here is me jumping off the bridge. I was terrified!

My Crazy Week in Photos

Cute kids at the rural school we visited.
Message to my family and friends before the bridge-jump.

The sun coming up over the mountains in banos, ecuador.


Resting on the mountain after a long hike.

An indigenous girl practicing a traditional dance at a school we visited

Jumping for joy at the top of a really steep mountain we climbed in banos



My education class snapping a picture on our way to a rural school

Pre-bridge jump, wondering what we're getting ourselves into :)


Sunday, October 5, 2008

Llamas, Bungee Jumping, and Volcanoes

Sorry I haven´t posted, life has been crazy! *** In case you don´t read to the end of this entry: I went bungee jumping off a bridge. Really.

Anyway--- Wednesday I left for a "field visit" with my education class. We went to experience what bilingual, rural schools are like. We visited 3 schools, all with different levels of poverty and materials. Here in Ecuador, a large portion of the population is indigenous. The majority of rural schools teach in both Kichwa (the native language) AND spanish. However, these rural schools have almost no materials or resources, little support from parents, and basically don´t provide a sufficient education. The trip was really interesting and eye-opening.

Wednesday night I stayed with an indigenous family in San Clemente. Wow. Their whole community is self-sustaining. They grow all their own food (yay fresh vegetables) and only use western medicine in extreme cases. It was amazing. I helped Laura (the mom) prepare the meals, and I fed the llamas, sheep, and guinea pigs. Guinea pigs are delicacy here in Ecuador. Yes, they eat them. That´s one cultural experience I´ll probably skip. I also slept on a bed with several llama-fur blankets to keep me toasty in the freezing mountain air.

I was only in Quito for several hours before leaving again. The city is way too polluted, busy, and unbeautiful to stick around on weekends. I prefer to travel. I went to Baños with some friends, which is about 4 hours south of Quito perched under an active (and on yellow alert for eruptions) volcano. It was, hands down, the most beautiful place I´ve ever been. Pictures to come. The attraction in Baños are the hot springs-- bodies of volcanic water, or water naturally heated by a volcano. They are supposedly really good for your health.

Speaking of health, there is a large possibility I am carrying some parasites in my digestive track. You probably don´t need the details on that one. It´s pretty common, especially if you half-ass boil the water like I did 12 days ago (big mistake). I just need to go to a doctor and get tested, and they will give me medicine if that is in fact the case. Mmmmm.

I would just like to reiterate that in baños, I bungee jumped off a bridge into a canyon. I have video and many photos to prove it. I really feel I have bragging rights on this one-- I bargained the price of a bungee jump down to 15 dollars in Ecuador then willfully threw myself off a bridge. It was terrifying, but really fun and exhilirating. I never thought I would do something like that, but life here is all about stepping outside the box and experiencing everything.

Monday, September 29, 2008

La Patria Ya Es De Todos!!

Hello from the sweetest internet cafe EVER. It's located in La Mariscal, aka "gringoland" because foreigners flock here. It has really cheap internet, good (safe) food, and cheap international calls. I'm sitting next to a pleasant British girl who is talking to her mom on Skype.

Ecuador has a new constitution! Sunday was voting day, and the country overwhelmingly approved constitution #20. This will hopefully be a step forward for the poor and disenfranchised, and not turn into some crazy Chavez-esque reign. Voting was so fun and a really important experience. It is WAY different here:

1.) Voting is mandatory. Obligatory. You must vote if you are between the ages of 18-65, there is no choice. After 65 it is optional. If you do not vote, you are fined 500 dollars (that is really a lot for the average ecuadorian family), you cannot travel in or out of the country for a year, and you cannot WORK in the country for a year. When you vote, you are given a card to prove to your employer that you voted. Basically its a really serious punishment, and everyone votes. You can vote null or blank if you don't have an opinion.

2.) The whole country is dry for 3 days before the vote. Dry, as in, NO alcohol consumption or sale! Its so that everyone votes with a clear mind, I guess? If you are caught with alcohol you get fined, put in jail for 11 days, and you lose your right to vote.

3.) You cannot campaign or duscuss the vote for 5 days before voting day. So the news pundits stopped talking about the vote on Wednesday.

4.) It is a really festive atmosphere. Its like a giant party for the whole country. It was actually kind of beautiful to see people excited about democracy. They weren't acting like it was a pain in the ass to vote, but something fun that actually impacts their lives. We definitely take our right to vote for granted in the USA. Outside the polling place, there are a zillion food vendors and music blares. Total fiesta.

So that was my voting experience. Results were in very quickly (small country) and when "si" won, my mom turned to me and said, "Our lives are going to be better. Maybe not for the very very rich, but my life will." Hope. Thats an important thing. Rafael Correa is only 38, but he gives hope to people traditionally disenfranchised-- indigenous, the poor, women, afroecuadorians. He is the first president to actually travel to villages and have town hall meetings (other presidents kept their distance from actual people, always a bad thing). Basically, I am happy that Ecuador has constitution number 20 and hope this one works out for them.

**"la patria ya es de todos" is the slogan for the new constitution, it means "the country (fatherland) belongs to us all"

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Pictures!

School girls in traditional Quichua clothing, Cangahua, Ecuador.
"Si" on a mountainside- encouraging citizens to vote "yes" to the new Constitution
The historic center of Quito
A common view in Quito-- not too far from school.

I got sick.

I really feel like sick is an understatement. It's funny now, looking back. But it wasn't funny then-- I've never been so violently ill in my whole life. About 30 minutes after I posted the last blog entry (Tuesday), I projectile vomited into the dining room trashcan. Thus began my downfall.

By 5 pm, I had thrown up 4 times, only once actually in a toilet. Luckily I have good friends that let me lay on the bathroom floor for an hour when I couldn't move and took me home in a taxi. I literally crawled out of school. When I thew up in the taxi (in a bag, thank you), the driver tried to kick us out. My friend sophie screamed that we weren't getting out and he needed to take us to my house. By 7 pm, I could no longer walk. I was super dehydrated and everything that went in (pills, sips of water, etc) came right back up. By midnight I had thown up 9 times, and I told myself that I would go to the hospital to get some fluids if I threw up one more time.

Saved! I stopped throwing up and was able to keep a little water down. I didn't go to the hospital, thank goodness. I laid in bed the entire next day, ocassionally eating a couple saltines. You know how they say the human body is like, 98% water? Well, I think I was about 50% water. I'm on the up and up though. Slowly getting my hydration and strength back.

Pictures from various city viewpoints posted above!

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Quito at night, school, and home life

Hello everyone! I had a pretty laidback weekend finishing my take home exam. Monday was rough, as Mondays tend to be. I was really tired and had more issues with my host mom.

She sent me on a guilt trip for leaving the house to write my papers (I needed internet sources and we don't have internet). I am a University student and school requires time, it is a priority right up there with family bonding and having fun. Plus, I do spend quite a lot of time with her. Saturday we played cards for 3 hours straight. Plus I cooked bread with her, cooked cinnamon rolls with her, watched tv with her, went to the supermarket/bank with her... basically did everything at home except write my papers for a few hours. She said, "You know, in the Latino family, we really like to spend to time together. Are you going to leave again tomorrow?" Sigh. I kind of wanted to cry. It sucks to put forth a lot of effort and leave feeling guilty. SOLUTION: do the best I can, spend time with my family, make compromises. BUT, draw lines and make sure I'm happy through it all!

Friday night we went to a discoteca, and I think my salsa is improving. Merengue I still don't understand. Reggeaton is really easy so it's my favorite. Me, Mike and Ryan were offered cocaine on the street. Someone screamed "COCAINA! COCAINE!" at us, like it was a hot dog or something. Um, pass? We also saw some guy get maced, he threw up and was stumbling around crying for at least 30 minutes. Oh Quito at night. My friend Sally was robbed by 7 teenagers, they took her wallet and keys, but she got her phone back. She seriously told someone with a knife, "please, can i have my phone?" and they gave it back. She is fine. You just have to laugh about it.

Sunday we had a big family get together over lunch. We went to an old hacienda that has been passed down through the generations. It became very obvious that my family is and always has been very wealthy. There was a 8 week old puppy, a barn full of guinea pigs (to eat), a fighting rooster, a dog that looked like a wolf, and a goat that tried to eat my shirt. I hung out with my host cousins, Dani (age 12) and David (age 8). Kids are universally more fun than adults. I learned how to thumb-war in Spanish.

I got a package from my parents, and life was awesome. Contents: tums, camera, swim cap and goggles, magazine, bisquick, maple syrup. Those are some of my favorite things. Now I have cap and goggles, so me and Mike are going to find a pool this week! Mike swims for UW Lacrosse. I'm going to start writing him workouts.

Friday, September 19, 2008

More pictures

a sheep mid-air... we see stuff like this all the time
me and sophie on the equator

waiting for the bus to go back to Quito (bet you can find the ecuatorian)
at a bar in Otavalo
walking around Otavalo

Internship/ thoughts on machismo

So I am officially going to Muisne, tiny mysterious island described below, for my internship. I will be teaching health at a high school called Colegio Alfredo Pérez Guerrero for 5 weeks. And I’m not going alone, which is a big relief as far as safety goes. There are 3 other students working in Muisne, though we all have different internship locations and will stay with different families. One week from today, we are all making the 9 hour journey to scope the place out. I also have an interview with the school’s director.

We have today completely free to work on our take-home exams. I am vaguely ashamed to be sitting in a café in Plaza de las Americas, the most American place in Quito. There are an astonishing amount of gringos here, and everything is super-expensive by Ecuadorian standards. $2.50 lattes-- holy crap-- that is unheard of. I can get a 3 hour bus trip for that amount. Creepy guys hang around the periphery, pretty much trying to seduce foreign women. The same happens in bars and clubs that tend to attract foreigners. “Que linda eres…” (you are so beautiful). Thanks. You’re only the 25th dude to invade my personal space to mention that tonight, so I hope you’re not expecting a marriage proposal or anything.

Speaking of creepy guys, I would just like to pause and reflect on being a woman in Ecuador. It sucks. I say this shedding my academic/anthropological hat, although even from a more informed perspective, I'm pretty sure it still sucks. It is annoying to be constantly whistled at, honked at, winked at, approached on the street, etc. “Constantly” is not an exaggeration, it really is constant. Being white doesn’t help, as I stick out even more. Yesterday on my walk home, I was fairly certain I was being followed by a man I accidentally made eye contact with. I did what I was supposed to, which is walk into a busy pharmacy with armed security at the door and waited several minutes. Oh Denison-issued rape whistle, I have never treasured you so much. I love the feminist movement, too.

BUT, I am still having a blast and love Ecuador. Miss you all.

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Week 3?

Wow, time flies. We have our first take home test this weekend. It is only 3 essays, 2 pages each. It shouldnt be too bad, plus we have Friday off to work on it. We´re planning a Quito scavenger hunt, which could either be really fun or land us in jail. The tasks so far include hugging a preist, convincing other gringos you are a tour guide, and finding an Australian. Why work on your test when there are so many people to annoy?

OK-- my internship. That is what I wanted to write about. In mid-August, we all stop classes to begin working full-time for a development organization. The majority of people will move out of Quito and live with a new family to experience a different way of life.

My internship is going to kick ass, pretty much. If it works out. My professor Emilia is currently making contacts to finalize it. SO.

I will move to Muisne, an island about 8 hours from Quito. Yes, an island, like it requires a short boat trip to get there. Moreover, I will not be teaching English like I thought (and was not terribly excited about). I will be teaching sex education/public health. To high schoolers! On an island! Could this be any more perfect for me? After doing HIV education this summer, I feel prepared and like I can offer a lot to the job. And the coast is the perfect location.

Chao amigos. Im late for dinner at a Thai restaurant with some friends.

Monday, September 15, 2008

Weekend Travels

What a busy and amazing weekend. I went with 5 friends to Otavalo, a Quichua ( indigenous) community 3 hours north of Quito. It costs $2.50 for a 3 hour bus ride! AH! Everything is so cheap here. I feel bad for my friends studying in Europe, bet they´re pinching pennies. Or euros. Anyway, there is a famous artisan market every Saturday in Otavalo, so we did some bartering. I got a futbol (soccer) jersey so I´m not the only one in Ecuador not wearing yellow on game day. Futbol = life. I also got some jewelry and a new scarf, and a present for my (real) mom. My souveniers are going to be awesome, just you wait till christmas.

So in Otavalo we:
- climbed a mountain, just because
- talked to an indegenous man on the street about his life (5 of his 11 children died within the first year of their life)
- went to an amazing waterfall and rock climbed to the top
- met a bunch of europeans and chatted and danced with them

I should have pictures from the otavalo adventure soon. When I got home from Otavalo, I had 7 cents. THAT is budgeting. I´m thankful it´s easy to travel here (maybe not safe, but easy) so I´ll get to see quite a lot of the country. I´m currently in the process of choosing my internship location, where I will teach English for 5 weeks. That´s not until October though.

Friday we visited Quito central, and toured the presidential palace!! That is like touring the white house. It was amazing. It is cool to be in Ecuador right now, because the country is voting on a new constitution soon (september 28). The whole country is polarized. I know it doesnt get any publicity in the USA, but Latin American politics are shifting in a dramatic way right now. Luckily the opposition in Ecuador isn´t incredibly violent. The new constitution will definitely help the broken political system, I have read and studied it closely taking into account Ecuador´s history. Right now the government has no power to do anything, including basics like administer justice and register citizens. However, the Catholic Church is an incredibly political body here and is (hate to say it), brainwashing many of the citizens by inserting their "moral authority" into the political realm. The Church is totally entrenched in money and politics. This is a gross generalization, but while the Church is strongly against the Constitution, indigenous people, women, the disenfranchised, homosexuals, etc. are really supporting it.

Things with my host mom are getting a little better. Going away for a weekend helped. I think we´re coming to an understanding of the food issue. She´s taking me to her women's crafting group every Thursday. This week we´re painting. Me and a bunch of grandmas painting, sweet! I like it a lot.

I am settling more into a routine. MSID kids are awesome, I am meeting great people. I feel like I can actually understand some of the cultural complexities-- why is this country so poor, so dirty, so crazy all the time, so loving and beautiful?

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Pictures

Yoga on the equator:


The cloud forest:

Well, here we are! The group, on our retreat this weekend. My camera is broken so I´m using other people´s photos.

I´m going to be honest, I wrote up something to post but am going to write something different.

I´m hitting a wall. Tonight was really frustrating. I love my host mom, really, she´s great. But it is really difficult for me to live with someone I need to be accountable to all the time. All the time. As a woman, I cannot be out after dark without a male escort. Ok. Fine. But as soon as I get home, it is ¨Where are you going? I made dinner, it´s ready now (4 pm). Are you done with your work yet? How about now? Why do you have homework every night? Don´t go there, there are Columbians on that street. I heard Haitians live there. It´s dangerous. Is there a friend that can go with you? Come back soon. Why do you read so much?¨

I want to become less individualistic, but I also need my space. I do not know how to be sensitive while sticking up for myself. And she is much older, so it is even harder to contradict her. But the food issue needs to be addressed, because that is kind of a central part of life here. Is there a way to protect my sanity while integrating myself into the culture?

So there it is, my first wall. I really feel ill, and it is getting dark, so I should go. Any advice would be appreciated.

Monday, September 8, 2008

My Weekend

Hola a mi familia extendida--

What a perfect weekend. Friday morning our class (of 29) went on an overnight- to a cloud forest in the jungle on the equator. Yeah. Not your ordinary class trip. The purpose of the trip was to bond, to rest, and to take in the natural beauty of Ecuador. We stayed in a lavish resort, WAY different than life in Quito. They reminded us not to get used to it. Within 1 mile of the resort, there was more biodiversity than the entire continent of North America. On our hour long hike, we passed 8 ecosystems.

We climbed down the mountain to swim in a river and under a waterfall. It was Eden. Not exaggerating. We snacked on guayavas we picked from a tree on the way down. Friday night, we had a dance party and sang kareoke. What is with kareoke here? ...Everyone is obsessed with it. Dear mom and dad, I am truly resenting you for never enrolling me in dance classes. I have zero rhythm, and dance = life in Latin America. I am seriously, fatally, white. It´s an assignment for our culture class to learn at least 2 dances before the end of the semester. Eek. I´m reading Michel Foucault in Spanish and I still consider dancing to be the hardest assignment.

Saturday morning, I FINALLY got to go for a run in the fresh air. A short run-- there´s not much oxygen here, but still. Exercise is such a luxury. In Quito, it´s too polluted and dangerous (especially for women) to run alone. I´m joining a gym next to my house soon so I don´t go insane. Later in the morning, our professor Emilia got together an impromptu yoga session on the Equator. I led the group in a series of asanas (3 years practicing and my first time teaching!). Yoga on the equator in the jungle. Life is so awesome.

Saturday night in Quito. A few of us were too tired for discotecas (dance clubs) so we just sat in a coffee shop-bar. Beer on tap and cappucinos in one place, it was like a dream. I have learned the taxi system because it´s too dangerous to take buses at night. All of my classmates here are amazing, super nice and intelligent. I haven´t stopped laughing since I got here. You HAVE to have a sense of humor and realize that sometimes, you just look stupid. You stick out. People have no idea what you´re trying to say. Asi es la vida. It´s fun!

Feel free to leave comments about what´s happening in the USA. I don´t really have access to lots of global news.

Thursday, September 4, 2008

Wow

¡Im alive! And the punctuation is really weird on these computers. Also, I am legitimately forgetting how to write in English. So, go with me here.

Where do I even start? I am sitting in an internet cafe in Quito, 2 blocks from my house. It has been overwhelming so far. Overwhelmingly awesome, overwhelmingly terrifying. Spanish 24 7, I cant believe people actually understand me. I have sat in a classroom and done Spanish grammar exercises since 6th grade and I'm fairly certain this is the first time I have used the language. Its so awesome to understand people.

This city is completely crazy. The buses, oh my god the buses. They dont even stop for men, they have to literally jump on. Unless you scream,"Im a gringo!", thereby humiliating yourself, and then the bus might stop depending on the mood of the driver. They are SO crowded. My house is about a 10 minute bus ride from school.

Classes are going well, I got put in the most advanced spanish class (how or why, we can only speculate). We are going to the equator this weekend, to a hostel for some class bonding.

ONE more thing before I get kicked off. My neighbors are awesome. I live next door to 2 gay hairdressers that sing Christina Aguilera VERY loudly every night. I die. My first night I was scared and lying on my new bed, wondering what I got myself into. All of the sudden... "I AM BEAUTIFUL!! NO MATTER WHAT YOU SAYYY!" Thank you Jesus. I was laughing so hard. And since our houses are about 2 centimeters apart, I know a lot about them already.

Love you all and miss you so much already. I am learning a lot. Abrazos amigos.

Monday, September 1, 2008

Ahhhhhh

Still no. I'm in the Panama city airport, toughing out my 7 hour lay over. 2 hours till my flight to Quito. Been up since 3 am. Largely hysterical and panicky since then, in my usual reserved way. Packed way too much (I lied when I said I packed lightly) and have been regretting it since it became too late to fix.

My internet browser is now talking to me in spanish.... is that a new firefox feature?! I'm not ready for that!! My head is exploding with spanish phrases. But when I open my mouth to say them, they sound completely ridiculous. By the look on the janitor's face in the restroom, they sound ridiculous to her too. All I said was "sorry" and "there's someone in there". I hope my accent gets better soon.

Maybe the high altitude of Quito will calm me down.

Thursday, August 28, 2008

Am I there yet?

Answer: No.

Oh Monday. Please come! Life around my casa is getting really restless. I'm pretty much packed, not bringing too much because I don't want to be the idiot carrying 100 lbs of luggage up a volcano.

Non-Ecuador update: I had an excellent summer. I interned for the Williamsburg AIDS Network doing HIV/AIDS education. This entailed everything from distributing glow in the dark condoms (they exist, my friend) to making our organization more youth-friendly. I camped on the beach in Cape Hatteras with my friends. I went to a JONAS BROTHERS concert with my sisters (insert pre-teen screech here). Vacationed in Hilton Head.

Most interesting moment of the summer? I donated blood for the first time. A short while later, I had a head-to-concrete experience while pumping gas. Once I regained consciousness, an ambulance AND firetruck were maneuvering their way through the busiest intersection in the city to come fetch me. I almost asked for my "gift of life" back.

Monday is a 16 hour travel day! Hopefully Hurricane Gustav doesn't ruin things.

Monday, August 18, 2008

13 more days!

Ok, let's get everyone up-to-speed on my semester plans. I leave September 1st for Quito, Ecuador. I'm studying with Minnesota Studies in International Development (MSID), the program I was promised would be most different from a semester at Denison. No offense Granville, I just need some adventure!

All instruction is in Spanish. The good news is that I'm a straight A spanish student... the bad news is I've never used it in a real life situation. Unless you count encountering my spanish professor at the grocery store. But hey, now's the time! I'll be learning about sustainable development and the effects of globalization. In other words, how to address issues of social justice and poverty without destroying languages, indigenous cultures, and the environment in the process (as Americans have traditionally done). You're probably like, oh god, you just made an interesting trip sound positively dreadful. But it sounds fun to me! And the real learning occurs outside of the classroom anyway.

I'll live with a family in Quito for 10 weeks (classroom phase), then move to a small coastal city for 6 weeks of teaching English to an elementary classroom (internship phase). Yes- me- teaching English to little Ecuadorian children. Qualified? We'll see. So I won't just be studying how to better the world, but hopefully putting it into action.

I've been vaccinated for things I didn't even know existed and have a lovely army of antibiotics (side effect: hallucinations), malaria prevention meds (side effect: psychosis), and pepto (side effect: pink vomit). I'm guaranteed certain amenities-- my own bedroom, clean water, food, etc. But I've also been warned it's not a vacation package. It's an experience. This is truly my Alexander-Supertramp-Intothewild moment. I'm so excited!